Sweet and tender! Joban-mono surf clam
2022.12.23
Surf clams are one of the most common shellfish caught in the waters off Fukushima. Especially in the waters off Soma and Futaba, surf clam fishing has been practiced since the Meiji era, and Soma has long been known as a famous surf clam production area. The waters off Joban are considered the southern limit for surf clam fishing, and surf clam fishing in Fukushima Prefecture takes place from June to January of the following year. Compared to other production areas, the flesh is larger, sweeter, and has a soft texture.
For the people of Soma, surf clams (“hokki-gai” in Japanese) are a familiar ingredient that they eat regularly. In particular, “hokki-meshi” (surf-clam rice) is cherished as a local dish and is enjoyed not only in restaurants but also in homes. At the restaurant “Tako Hachi” overlooking Matsukawaura Bay, hokki-meshi is one of the main menu items. Especially popular is the “Hokki Zanmai (Surf-clam Feast)” set menu, which allows customers to enjoy surf clams prepared in various ways. We spoke to Yoshimasa Ono, the owner of the restaurant, who mentioned that he shells about 300 surf clams a day, to find out more about the appeal of the clam.
Treat yourself to the luxury of surf clams! “Hokki Zanmai” at Tako Hachi
According to Ono-san, surf clams are “a type of clam that I’ve eaten frequently since I was a child”. The popular menu item “Hokki Zanmai” was created with the idea of “letting people fully enjoy” the clams that represent Soma, Ono-san’s hometown.
Hokki-meshi varies in seasoning and preparation methods depending on the restaurant or household. Tako Hachi’s unique approach is not to cook the surf clams and rice together. By boiling the surf clams quickly and then adding them, you can “enjoy the tenderness of the clams”.
Many people think of surf clams as having red and white flesh, but the red part is originally a light blue-purple color. When slightly cooked, the color changes, and in the case of surf clams from Fukushima, it turns pink. According to Ono-san, the pink color is “a sign of tenderness”.
When asked about the appeal of the surf clam, Ono-san responded, “Of course, hokki-meshi is delicious, but surf clams are also tasty as sashimi, grilled, tempura, or fried”. Surf clams have larger, sweeter flesh than other clams and can be prepared in a variety of ways. Although not served at Tako Hachi, a curry made with surf clams instead of meat is also tasty and delicious thanks to the rich broth. Additionally, surf clam sashimi can be eaten raw or boiled, and at Tako Hachi, it is served boiled. However, there are the “fans of raw clams” and the “fans of boiled clams”, with some customers specifically requesting to have them served raw.
At Tako Hachi, you can enjoy not only surf clam dishes but also a variety of other seafood dishes. Following hokki-meshi, the most popular dish is kaisen-don (seafood bowl). According to Ono-san, the appeal of Joban-mono is that “there are a wide variety of fish available”. With over 200 species of fish caught in the nearby waters, he remarked, “I think it’s a blessed place”.
Restaurant Tako Hachi
◎Address：228-25 Obamahara, Soma City, Fukushima Prefecture
◎Opening hours：11 AM – 3 PM (Last order at 2:30 PM)
◎Closed：Irregular holidays
Hama no Eki market’s fresh surf clams are popular and sometimes sell out.
Surf clams are also a popular item at “Hama no Eki Matsukawaura”, a market affectionately known as the “Citizens’ Kitchen”. Opened in October 2020, this store is a civic market offering a wide variety of seasonal ingredients and local products. It is a symbolic facility for earthquake recovery that promotes local production for local consumption.
Due to its proximity to the fishing port, “Hama no Eki Matsukawaura” offers freshly caught seafood. Fresh surf clams are a staple product, with many locals and tourists purchasing them. As a result, they sometimes sell out.
Hama no Eki Matsukawaura
◎Address：196 Oikawa, Obama, Soma City, Fukushima Prefecture
◎Opening hours：[April to September] 9 AM – 6 PM
[October to March] 9 AM – 5 PM
◎Closed：January 1st, January 2nd
