Irresistible melt-in-your-mouth texture! Mehikari (greeneye) loved by the citizens of Iwaki.
2022.11.15
Mehikari is a fish that is particularly loved by the locals, even among the many species of Joban-mono fish. It is a small deep-sea fish about 15 cm long, and its standard Japanese name is “aome-eso”. They are called Mehikari because of their large eyes, which appear to glow blue (Me [eye] Hikari [glow]).
Mehikari grown in the rich waters of Fukushima have a good fat content and thin skin. They are often eaten as karaage (deep-fried), dried fish, or sashimi, making them one of the representative fish of Joban-mono. They are a specialty of Iwaki City and were designated as the “Fish of the City” in 2001.
Many restaurants in Iwaki City serve Mehikari dishes. In particular, at Shuen Teru located near Izumi Station, you can enjoy various dishes made with Mehikari, including ochazuke (rice with green tea poured on it). We spoke to Yoshinori Hakozaki, owner of Shuen Teru, who is dedicated to Iwaki’s fresh fish and local sake, and is well-versed in the appeal of Mehikari.
Deep-fried, grilled, sashimi, ochazuke… a variety of ways to prepare Mehikari
According to Yoshinori-san, Mehikari is a familiar food that he has been “eating since he was little”. When he was a child, Mehikari was often eaten as maruboshi (dried whole fish without being cut open). He clearly remembers the sight of Mehikari skewered on bamboo sticks and hung to dry in the fish market’s drying area. In those days it was common to be sent on errands with the instruction to “buy a skewer of Mehikari!”
For the people of Iwaki, Mehikari is a fish that they eat regularly. Since it is eaten regularly here, “some people are very particular about how it’s prepared”, says Yoshinori-san. It seems everyone has their preferred way of eating it.
Mehikari has a mild flavor and is easy to eat, with bones that are not too hard. This means that even children can eat them whole when prepared as karaage. Because the preparation method is simple and easy, Mehikari is often eaten as karaage at home. It is also perfect as a snack to have with a beer.
Yoshinori-san’s top recommendation is the dried-overnight cut-open Mehikari. As each fish market and restaurant prepares it in its own way, the taste varies slightly from place to place. “There’s a lot to discover with the dried Mehikari. It is fun to try dried fish from different places and find the one that suits your taste”, says Yoshinori-san. Each place has its own preferences for salt concentration and drying time.
Of course, the dried Mehikari at Shuen Teru is also homemade. Because Mehikari lives in the deep sea, there can sometimes be dirt around the gills. The cleaning process is meticulous and carefully performed. Slowly grilled, the dried-overnight Mehikari has a perfect balance of saltiness and fat, with a concentrated umami flavor that spreads in your mouth.
In the last 20 to 30 years, Mehikari has also become popular as sashimi. Mehikari spoils quickly, so they can only be made into sashimi within two days of being caught. The reason you can eat it as sashimi is because it is caught here. The melt-in-your-mouth softness and the lingering sweetness in the mouth are particularly memorable.
And the signature dish at Shuen is the “Shuen Teru Mehikari Ochazuke (酒縁てる めひかり茶漬け®)”. Developed with a unique cooking method, they have been granted a trademark with the aim of popularizing this way of eating. Many people order it as a finishing dish, but it often sells out due to its popularity.
There are not many places where you can have Mehikari on rice with green tea poured over it (“ochazuke”). When I asked him why he had chosen to make it into ochazuke, he said, “I’ve been eating fish-ochazuke since I was little”. He had planned to make ochazuke with a different type of fish, but when he tried it with Mehikari it was delicious.
The topping on the ochazuke is dried and roasted Mehikari. Surprisingly, they adjust the salt content and the drying time specifically for ochazuke. “The taste is different from that of the usual dried Mehikari. We’re very particular about it!” he says, showing his confidence.
Guests are treated to some of the local sake from Fukushima, along with the Joban-mono fish.
Shuen Teru’s commitment is not limited to fish. The restaurant takes pride in its local sake and always has over 20 varieties of Japanese sake available. By visiting the breweries and building relationships, they are able to stock rare brands.
For those who don’t like sake, they also offer it in a sparkling style. We offer drinking suggestions to help our customers enjoy their beverages more.
Mehikari, a specialty product of Iwaki City, is so beloved locally that it has been designated as the “Fish of the City”. When asked why it is so popular, Yoshinori-san smiles and says, “Maybe because it looks cute”.
Mehikari is a fish that is “delicious and easy for anyone to enjoy”. It can be grilled, fried, served as sashimi, or even used in ochazuke, among various other cooking methods. Each restaurant offers a menu full of unique ideas.
“At Shuen Teru, we are recommending Mehikari. Everyone says it’s delicious”. Since it is rarely seen in supermarkets in the Tokyo metropolitan area, Mehikari remains a “hidden gem” known only to a few. We encourage you to try this fish, proudly recommended by the people of Iwaki.
